Technical Roofline

Fascia Board Sizes: 150mm, 175mm, 200mm, 225mm — Which Do You Need?

Choose the right fascia board size for your property. Guide to 150mm, 175mm, 200mm and 225mm depths, matching existing boards and upgrading.

18 February 2025 7 min read

Fascia Board Sizes: 150mm, 175mm, 200mm, 225mm — Which Do You Need?

The fascia board size you need depends on the depth of your existing board and the size of the rafter feet it covers. The most common size on UK homes is 200 mm (8 inches), which fits the majority of two-storey properties built from the 1930s onwards. Bungalows and single-storey extensions typically use 150 mm (6 inches). Larger detached properties and those with deep rafter overhangs may need 225 mm (9 inches). The only reliable way to choose is to measure your existing fascia — or, if you are replacing rotten boards and the original has deteriorated, measure from the top of the rafter end to the underside of the soffit line.

Getting the size wrong means visible gaps at the top (too shallow) or boards that project below the soffit line (too deep). Neither looks professional and both can cause problems with gutter alignment and weather protection.


Standard PVC Fascia Board Sizes

DepthWidth (Thickness)Common NameTypical Use
150 mm (6”)9 mm or 16 mmSix-inchBungalows, garages, single-storey extensions, sheds
175 mm (7”)9 mm or 16 mmSeven-inchSmaller terraces, older bungalows, some 1960s–70s houses
200 mm (8”)9 mm or 16 mmEight-inchMost two-storey houses, the UK default
225 mm (9”)9 mm or 16 mmNine-inchLarger detached, properties with deep overhangs, deep flow gutter
250 mm (10”)16 mmTen-inchLarge detached, some commercial, extended overhangs
300 mm+16–18 mmTwelve-inch+Commercial, industrial, bespoke

Board Thickness

Fascia boards come in two standard thicknesses:

  • 9 mm (capping board) — thin board designed to fit over existing timber fascia. Only use when the timber underneath is structurally sound.
  • 16 mm (replacement board) — full-thickness structural board. Used when removing the old timber fascia entirely and fixing directly to rafter ends. This is the standard for new installations.

Always use 16 mm boards unless you are specifically capping over good-condition timber. The 9 mm boards are not strong enough to carry gutter brackets and rainwater weight without the timber backing.

Kalsi’s fascia board range is available in all standard sizes, thicknesses, and colours.


How to Measure Your Existing Fascia

Method 1: Measure the Existing Board

If the current fascia is intact:

  1. Position a ladder safely (use a standoff, not the gutter)
  2. Measure the visible depth of the board from the top edge (under the roof tiles) to the bottom edge
  3. Add 5–10 mm for the portion hidden behind the soffit board at the bottom

This gives you the nominal board depth.

Method 2: Measure the Rafter End

If the old fascia has been removed or has deteriorated beyond measurement:

  1. Measure from the underside of the roof tile/felt line at the top of the rafter to the soffit level at the bottom
  2. Add 10–15 mm to ensure the board fully covers the rafter end and overlaps the soffit slightly

Common Pitfalls

  • Don’t assume all sides are the same. Some properties have different rafter depths on different elevations (especially where extensions have been added).
  • Check multiple points. Rafter depths can vary by 10–15 mm along a single elevation due to settling, repairs, or original construction tolerance.
  • Account for the soffit. The fascia’s bottom edge typically overlaps the soffit board by 5–10 mm. Factor this into your measurement.

Choosing the Right Size for Your Property Type

Property TypeTypical Fascia DepthNotes
Bungalow150 mmLower roofline, shallower rafter depth
Terraced house (pre-1930)150–175 mmOlder properties with shallower eaves
1930s semi175–200 mmThe classic suburban semi
Post-war semi/detached200 mmStandard depth since the 1950s
Modern new build200 mmThe industry default
Large detached200–225 mmWider eaves overhangs
Barn conversion225–300 mmDeep rafter overhangs, agricultural proportions
Garage / outbuilding150 mmSmaller scale structure

When to Go Bigger

There are legitimate reasons to choose a deeper fascia than the original:

Deeper Gutter Profiles

If you are upgrading from standard half-round to deep-flow or hi-cap guttering, the taller gutter profile needs a deeper fascia to avoid the gutter projecting above the tile line or below the soffit. A 200 mm fascia accommodates most domestic gutter profiles; 225 mm gives headroom for the largest systems.

Better Rafter Coverage

A slightly deeper board covers more of the rafter end, improving weather protection and reducing the visible timber at the top of the fascia. This is particularly useful on older properties where rafter ends are uneven.

Aesthetic Proportion

On larger properties, a deeper fascia gives a more substantial, proportionate appearance. A 150 mm board on a large detached home can look too slim.

Replacing Deteriorated Timber

If the original fascia and the timber behind it have deteriorated, the new board may need to be deeper to cover the repair area.


Fascia Profile Shapes

PVC fascia boards are available in several profile shapes:

ProfileDescriptionBest For
Flat boardPlain, flat face with square edgesModern, clean look; most popular
BullnoseFlat face with a rounded bottom edgeSofter appearance; traditional
OgeeMoulded decorative profile on the bottom edgePeriod properties, premium appearance
ChamferedAngled cut on the bottom edgeContemporary, architectural
Tongue and grooveInterlocking boards (also used for soffit)Wide applications, traditional feel

The profile choice is aesthetic — all profiles are available in the standard depth range and perform identically. Choose based on the property’s style and your personal preference.


Fascia Board Colours

Standard PVC-U fascia colours available from Kalsi Plastics:

ColourDescriptionPopularity
WhiteClassic bright whiteStill the most common across UK
BlackSmart, architecturalGrowing — especially with black guttering
Anthracite greyDark charcoal greyFastest-growing, pairs with grey windows
RosewoodDark woodgrain effectPopular on 1970s–80s properties
Light oakGolden woodgrain effectWarm, traditional
MahoganyRich dark woodgrainHeritage properties
Cream/ivoryOff-whiteAlternative to white for rendered properties

Through-colour boards (where the colour penetrates the full thickness) are more durable than foil-wrapped or surface-coated alternatives. If scratched or damaged, through-colour boards show the same colour throughout.


Thickness Matters: 9mm vs 16mm

This is a critical specification that is often overlooked:

Feature9 mm (Capping Board)16 mm (Replacement Board)
Primary useCovering existing sound timberReplacing timber entirely
Structural supportRelies on timber behindSelf-supporting against rafter ends
Gutter bracket supportBrackets screw through into timberBrackets screw through into rafter ends
Weight supportedLimited — timber does the workFull — can carry gutter + rainwater
Cost per metreLowerHigher
LongevityDepends on condition of hidden timberFull independent lifespan

The Capping Debate

Capping (fitting a 9 mm PVC board over existing timber) is quicker and cheaper than full replacement. It avoids removing the old fascia and is less disruptive. However:

Capping is only appropriate when:

  • The existing timber is structurally sound (no rot, no splitting)
  • The rafter ends are firm and in good condition
  • The existing board is reasonably straight (PVC will follow its shape)

Capping is NOT appropriate when:

  • The timber is rotten (the rot continues behind the PVC, hidden from view)
  • Rafter ends are deteriorating
  • The existing board is warped, bowed, or uneven
  • You want a maintenance-free roofline for the next 30 years

If in doubt, opt for full 16 mm replacement. It costs more upfront but gives a genuinely maintenance-free result with no hidden surprises.


Ordering Guide

When ordering fascia boards, you need:

  1. Total length (linear metres) — measure every elevation
  2. Depth — 150, 175, 200, or 225 mm
  3. Thickness — 9 mm (capping) or 16 mm (replacement)
  4. Profile — flat, bullnose, ogee, etc.
  5. Colour — white, anthracite grey, rosewood, etc.
  6. Accessories — joint trims, corner pieces, ventilation strips

How to Calculate Lengths

Measure each elevation separately:

  • Front elevation: ___ m
  • Rear elevation: ___ m
  • Left return: ___ m
  • Right return: ___ m
  • Total: ___ linear metres

Add 10% for waste (cuts, mitres, off-cuts).

Standard board lengths are typically 2.5 m and 5 m. Work out how many boards you need to cover the total length with minimal joints.


Frequently Asked Questions

What size fascia board do I need?

Measure your existing fascia from top to bottom. The most common sizes in the UK are 150 mm (bungalows), 175 mm (smaller houses), 200 mm (most two-storey homes), and 225 mm (larger detached). If replacing rotten timber, measure the rafter end height and add 10–15 mm for overlap.

Can I use a bigger fascia board than the original?

Yes, within reason. Going one size up (e.g., 175 mm to 200 mm) is common and can improve the appearance and weather protection. Going much larger may require adjusting the soffit and can look disproportionate. The gutter must also sit in the correct position relative to the roof tiles.

What is the difference between 9mm and 16mm fascia boards?

9 mm boards are thin capping boards designed to cover existing timber fascia that is still structurally sound. 16 mm boards are full replacement boards that replace the timber entirely and fix directly to the rafter ends. For a long-lasting, maintenance-free result, 16 mm replacement boards are recommended.

White remains the most common overall, but anthracite grey is the fastest-growing choice — especially when paired with grey replacement windows, grey guttering, and a white soffit. Black is also popular on period and urban properties. Woodgrain finishes (rosewood, light oak) remain steady on rural and traditional homes.

Do fascia boards come in standard lengths?

Yes. PVC fascia boards are typically supplied in 2.5 m and 5 m lengths. Longer runs require joints covered by fascia joint trim pieces. Plan your cuts to minimise visible joints — ideally positioning them at natural break points like above downpipes or at changes in direction.

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