Slatted Cladding / Slat Wall Installation
How to install the DuraKlad slatted cladding system using clip-fix technology for a contemporary, low-maintenance external finish.
Safety Warning — Working at Height
Use scaffold or a suitable working platform for any work above 2 metres. Slatted cladding components can be heavy in quantity — use appropriate manual handling techniques. Wear safety glasses when cutting slats (composite dust). Follow the Work at Height Regulations 2005. Secure loose slats and materials in windy conditions.
What You'll Need
Tools
- Scaffold or working platform
- SDS drill (for masonry fixing)
- Drill/driver with various bits
- Mitre saw or circular saw (with fine-tooth blade)
- Spirit level (1200mm minimum)
- Tape measure and chalk line
- Spacer blocks (for consistent slat gaps)
- Safety glasses and dust mask
Materials
- DuraKlad slats (composite or PVC-U)
- DuraKlad clip fixings (system-specific)
- Treated softwood battens (38 × 50mm or 50 × 50mm)
- Masonry fixings (75mm+ frame fixings)
- End caps and finishing trims
- Corner trims (internal / external)
- Stainless steel screws (for clips to battens)
- Exterior silicone sealant (colour-matched)
Technical Specifications
Step-by-Step Installation
1 Prepare the Wall Surface
Inspect the wall for structural issues, damp, or damage. Address any defects before cladding — the slats will make the wall inaccessible once installed. If adding insulation behind the cladding, plan the total build-up depth (insulation + cavity + battens + slats). Mark the positions of any pipes, cables, vents, or services that pass through the wall — these will need to be accommodated in the batten layout. Check that the wall plane is flat to within 5mm over 2m.
2 Install the Batten Framework
For horizontal slats, fix horizontal battens at 400–600mm vertical centres. Use treated softwood battens (minimum 38 × 50mm) fixed to the masonry with frame fixings. The batten framework must be perfectly flat and level — use a long spirit level and pack behind battens where needed. The battens create the ventilated cavity behind the slats. Add additional battens around window and door openings, at the base, and at the top edge of the cladded area. Ensure ventilation is maintained at base and top.
3 Set Out the First Slat Position
The first slat position determines the alignment of the entire installation. Mark the position of the first slat at the base of the cladding area using a chalk line. Ensure this line is perfectly level — check with a spirit level over the full length. If the building's existing features (window sills, string courses) are not level, decide whether to follow the level line or taper to match the building. Level is usually correct for the modern aesthetic of slatted cladding.
4 Fix the First Row of Clips
Fix DuraKlad clips to the battens at the first slat position. Space clips at every batten intersection. The clip has a lower channel that receives the bottom of the first slat and an upper channel that will receive the bottom of the slat above. Fix each clip with a stainless steel screw through the pre-drilled hole into the batten. Ensure clips are aligned vertically — use a plumb line or spirit level between rows.
5 Install the First Slat
Cut the first slat to length, allowing 5mm expansion gap at each end. Engage the bottom edge of the slat into the lower clip channels. Push down firmly until the slat clicks into position. Check level — make any adjustments before the clips fully engage. The slat should be held securely by the clips with no lateral movement. The hidden clip system means no screws or nails are visible on the face of the slats.
6 Continue Up the Wall
Fix the next row of clips above the first slat. The clip spacing determines the gap between slats (typically 10–15mm), creating the characteristic slatted appearance. Engage the next slat into the clips. The upper channel of the lower clip holds the bottom of each slat, while the lower channel of the upper clip holds the top. Continue row by row up the wall. Use spacer blocks to verify consistent slat spacing — uneven gaps are very visible on this type of cladding.
7 Detail Corners, Windows, and Edges
At external corners, use dedicated DuraKlad corner profiles — these overlap the slat ends for a clean, factory-finished look. At internal corners, use internal corner trims. Around windows and doors, terminate slats into J-trims or purpose-designed window reveal trims. Cut slats carefully around openings — the slatted aesthetic demands precision, as any misalignment is immediately obvious. Seal all trim junctions with colour-matched exterior silicone.
8 Fit End Caps and Finish
Fit end caps to any exposed slat ends — these push into the hollow profile of the slat, concealing the cut end and preventing water ingress. At the base and top of the cladding, fit starter/finisher trims to create a neat edge. Check that all ventilation gaps remain open — air must flow up through the cavity behind the slats. Clean the installation with warm soapy water. Inspect from a distance — the slatted pattern should be uniform with consistent gaps and straight, level lines.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Uneven batten framework — The clips sit on the battens, so any unevenness translates directly to the finished surface. Take time to get the battens perfectly flat and aligned.
- Inconsistent slat gaps — Slatted cladding's visual impact relies on uniform spacing. Even a 2mm variation in gap width is visible. Use spacer blocks religiously.
- No expansion gaps at ends — Composite and PVC slats expand with heat. Without 5mm gaps at abutments, slats will bow and push out of clips in summer.
- Face-fixing slats — The DuraKlad system is designed for hidden clip fixing. Screwing through the face of slats defeats the aesthetic purpose and creates water ingress points.
- Blocking the ventilated cavity — Air circulation behind the slats prevents moisture build-up. Sealing the base or top of the cavity traps moisture and promotes rot in the battens and damp in the wall.
- Cutting with the wrong blade — Composite slats generate fine dust when cut. Use a fine-tooth blade and wear a dust mask. A coarse blade chips the edges and creates a poor finish.
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