Bathroom Wall Panel Installation
How to fit PVC wall panels in bathrooms and shower areas using adhesive or batten methods, including trim selection and waterproof finishing.
Preparation Note
Bathroom wall panels can be fitted directly over existing tiles (saving removal cost and mess), onto plasterboard, or onto timber battens. The wall surface must be dry, flat, and structurally sound. If fitting over tiles, ensure no tiles are loose. For shower enclosures, the adhesive method with a continuous silicone seal provides the best waterproof result.
What You'll Need
Tools
- Fine-tooth handsaw or sharp utility knife
- Tape measure and pencil
- Spirit level
- Caulking gun
- Jigsaw (for cutouts around pipes/fittings)
- Hole saw or multi-tool
- Mitre block (for trim cuts)
- Clean cloths
Materials
- PVC wall panels (1000mm wide or tongue & groove)
- PVC trims (internal corner, external corner, edge, starter)
- Panel adhesive (grab adhesive for wet areas)
- Clear silicone sealant (sanitary grade)
- Timber battens 25×50mm (if batten method)
- Stainless steel staples or pins (if batten method)
- Masking tape
Technical Specifications
Step-by-Step Installation
1 Prepare the Walls
Ensure walls are dry, clean, and flat. Remove any loose wallpaper, flaking paint, or crumbling plaster. Existing ceramic tiles can be left in place if they are firmly bonded — panels can be fitted directly over them using adhesive. Check walls with a straight edge — any bumps greater than 3mm should be flattened or filled. For very uneven walls (old stone, poor plaster), use the batten method instead of direct adhesive. Turn off electrical supplies to any sockets or switches in the work area.
2 Plan the Layout
Measure each wall and plan the panel layout. For wide panels (1000mm), calculate how many full panels fit each wall and plan where the cut panel will fall — always start from the most visible corner so cut panels are in the least conspicuous position. For tongue-and-groove panels, start from one corner and work across. Mark pipe positions, switches, and any penetrations that need cutting. Allow 2–3mm gap at floor and ceiling for expansion.
3 Install Trims First
Fix all trims before fitting the panels — panels slide into the trims. Fix internal corner trims in each corner, edge trims along the ceiling and floor line (or where panels meet tiles/other finishes), and starter trims if beginning at a door frame or window. Fix trims with adhesive and/or small pins. Ensure corner trims are plumb using a spirit level — if the corner trim is off, every panel will follow the error.
4 Fit the First Panel
The first panel is the most important — it must be perfectly plumb. Apply adhesive to the wall (or to the back of the panel) in a zigzag pattern, concentrating on edges. For the adhesive method, use a grab adhesive rated for wet areas. Slide the panel into the corner trim and press firmly against the wall. Check with a spirit level — adjust immediately before the adhesive grabs. For the batten method, staple or pin through the tongue edge into the batten (the next panel will conceal the fixings).
5 Continue Across the Wall
For tongue-and-groove panels, slide each subsequent panel's groove over the previous panel's tongue. Apply adhesive to the wall and push the panel home — you should feel the tongue engage with a gentle click. For wide panels, butt-join using H-section trims between panels. Work progressively across the wall. Keep checking plumb every 2–3 panels. Where panels meet pipes, measure carefully and cut holes using a hole saw or jigsaw — cut holes 2mm oversize to allow for expansion.
6 Cut the Final Panel
The last panel on each wall usually needs cutting to width. Measure the gap between the last full panel and the corner trim (measure at top, middle, and bottom — walls are rarely perfectly parallel). Cut the panel to width using a fine-tooth saw or sharp utility knife (score and snap for thin panels). The cut edge slides into the corner trim, concealing the cut. If the gap is very narrow (<50mm), it may be easier to adhesive-fix a filler strip rather than a full panel.
7 Seal All Joints
Apply a continuous bead of sanitary-grade clear silicone sealant along all internal corners, trim edges, around pipe penetrations, and along the junction with the bath or shower tray. Use masking tape either side of the sealant line for a crisp finish. Smooth with a wet finger or sealant tool, then remove the masking tape immediately before the silicone skins over. This seal is your waterproof barrier — there should be no unsealed gaps anywhere in the wet zone.
8 Final Checks
Inspect every panel — check for even contact (press panels; there should be no hollow areas where adhesive hasn't bonded). Verify all trim ends are capped or sealed. Re-fit any removed electrical faceplates. Allow adhesive to cure for 24 hours before using the shower. Clean panels with warm soapy water and a soft cloth — do not use abrasive cleaners, which can damage the panel surface finish.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- First panel not plumb — If the first panel is even 2mm off plumb, the error compounds across the wall. Every subsequent panel will be off, and the final panel won't fit the corner trim cleanly.
- Panels before trims — Always fix trims first. Trying to force trims onto panels after fixing is very difficult and often damages the panels.
- Insufficient adhesive — Don't be stingy with adhesive, especially in shower areas. Hollow spots behind panels can flex under water pressure and eventually delaminate.
- Skipping the silicone seal — The panels themselves are waterproof, but unsealed edges and corners will let water behind them. Seal everything in the wet zone.
- Cutting with a coarse blade — Coarse saw blades chip and crack the decorative face of the panel. Always use a fine-tooth blade and cut with the decorative face upwards.
- No expansion gap — Leave 2–3mm at floor and ceiling. Panels tight to the floor in a heated bathroom will buckle when they expand.
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